Welcome to Our Online Training

Please allow approximately one hour to complete the training class. There are 11 sections to complete, each with helpful tips for planning and designing your garden along with several quiz questions. You must answer each question correctly in order to proceed to the next section. 

We ask that you take your time and read through this information. This is too important to quickly answer the questions just to "pass the test" without gaining any of the knowledge!

You will find the information invaluable as you begin your garden design process, and it may make the difference between your final design being accepted or rejected. 

Please note: if you choose to leave the training class prior to completing all 11 sections, you will have to start at the beginning the next time you log in. 

Once you have completed all sections, an email confirmation will be sent to the email address you provide.

Section 1 - Your L2G Project is very important to us.

Please answer the following questions.

The correct answer is: Less habitat for beneficial wildlife

You’ll beautify your neighborhoods by using richly colored and textured elements for our landscapes from our choice of nonplant material such as rock, and from the thousands of plants that thrive in the Long Beach climate, many of which provide food, habitat and other benefits to birds, butterflies and other wildlife.

You answered correctly: Less habitat for beneficial wildlife.

You’ll beautify your neighborhoods by using richly colored and textured elements for our landscapes from our choice of nonplant material such as rock, and from the thousands of plants that thrive in the Long Beach climate, many of which provide food, habitat and other benefits to birds, butterflies and other wildlife.

Section 2 – Resources to help you plan your L2G Landscape.

The Internet has an abundance of free information about drought-tolerant landscaping, from instructions on how to kill your lawn to guidelines for efficient irrigation methods.  Begin your search with the Resource Tab on this website, where we have listed many of our favorite sites.

Be sure to visit our website,which contains before and after photos of beautiful Long Beach landscapes, and includes the design plans and names of plants.

Two other terrific sites are: Los Angeles Coast Water Wise Gardening and BeWaterWise.com Garden Spot. In addition to photos of beautiful landscapes, both sites have extensive on-line databases of drought tolerant plants, including photos and information about the plants, such as size, color of blooms, whether they attract wildlife such as butterflies, and more.

The BeWaterWise website also hosts free on-line “California Friendly Landscape and Gardening Classes”.  Go directly to the classes here.

Another resource is very close to home.  Remember the old saying “imitation is the highest form of flattery?”  Flatter your neighbors.  A sure-fire way to end up with a landscape you’ll love is to simply copy existing landscapes that you admire.  Walk around your neighborhood.  Identify what it is you like about a particular landscape, the plants, rocks, mulch, seating area, etc.  If you’re feeling bold, knock on the front door of these homes and ask about their experience, who their designer and/or contractor was, etc.  You’ll find most homeowners take pride in their landscape and love to talk about it.

Stores, nurseries and botanical gardens are other good sources of ideas.  Non-plant material, such as pavers, can greatly enhance a landscape (and most are maintenance-free!).  Take a trip to your local hardware stores where you’ll find non-plant material that is readily available or can be special ordered, and their associated prices.

For plants, you can explore local nurseries to see what’s in season, click here for a list of Long Beach area nurseries. For the widest selection of drought-tolerant plants, go to nurseries that specialize in them.  You can also get ideas from various websites such as Tree of Life Nursery, Las Pilitas Nursery, California Native Plant Society, and Theodore Payne Foundation .

Take a short trip to one of our local botanical gardens and scroll through beautiful landscapes to see the absolute beauty of drought-tolerant plants.  Local gardens include the Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden in Claremont, the Santa Barbara Botanical Gardens, and the Water Conservation Garden at Cuyamaca College. Don’t miss the beautiful drought tolerant garden at the Long Beach Water Department (1800 E Wardlow Road, Long Beach 90807)!

Finally, a landscape designer experienced in drought-tolerant landscape in Long Beach can be a terrific choice. Be sure to check out some of his or her completed projects before committing to work with them, to make sure their concept of “beautiful” is the same as yours.

Please answer the following questions.

Although not in-correct, the best answer would be: D. All of the above.

It is a very good idea to (a) visit your local nursery and ask questions about plants that would do well in your garden. This website is valuable resource for designing your landscape and we encourage you to (b) take advantage of the free information available on the Internet about landscapes, plants, non-plant material, etc. where you'll (c) find other residential drought-tolerant landscapes you admire, and copy what you like best.

You answered correctly: D. All of the above.

It is a very good idea to (a) visit your local nursery and ask questions about plants that would do well in your garden. This website is vaulable resource for designing your landscape and we encourage you to (b) take advantage of the free information available on the Internet about landscapes, plants, non-plant material, etc. where you'll (c) find other residential drought-tolerant landscapes you admire, and copy what you like best.

Actually, this statement is True

Another resource is very close to home. Remember the old saying “imitation is the highest form of flattery?” Flatter your neighbors. A sure-fire way to end up with a landscape you’ll love is to simply copy existing landscapes that you admire. Walk around your neighborhood. Identify what it is you like about a particular landscape, the plants, rocks, mulch, seating area, etc. If you’re feeling bold, knock on the front door of these homes and ask about their experience, who their designer and/or contractor was, etc. You’ll find most homeowners take pride in their landscape and love to talk about it.

You answered correctly: True.

Another resource is very close to home. Remember the old saying “imitation is the highest form of flattery?” Flatter your neighbors. A sure-fire way to end up with a landscape you’ll love is to simply copy existing landscapes that you admire. Walk around your neighborhood. Identify what it is you like about a particular landscape, the plants, rocks, mulch, seating area, etc. If you’re feeling bold, knock on the front door of these homes and ask about their experience, who their designer and/or contractor was, etc. You’ll find most homeowners take pride in their landscape and love to talk about it.

Section 3 – Budgeting for success.

It’s very important to get a rough yet realistic estimate of the cost of your project before you start spending money; we’ve all heard the horror stories about the kitchen remodel that stopped with the work only partially complete because homeowners grossly underestimated the cost of the projects and ran out of money.  This does not have to happen to you and your new landscape if you take just a little time to plan it out.

Two of the most important factors related to cost are: (1) whether you plan on using expensive materials (exotic plants and stone, for example) and (2) whether you plan on doing most of the work yourself or hiring others to do it.  We have found that you can expect to pay anywhere from less than $5 per square foot to over $20, depending on your answers to these two questions.

If considering hiring others to do the work, it’s important to get the right person for the job.  One of the best ways to do this is to find landscapes that you admire, and ask those homeowners who they worked with (designer and/or installer) and if they would recommend that person.  When you find a professional you might be interested in hiring, remember to ask that person for references.

Here are some things to consider when thinking about cost.

1. Cost of design:  Our L2G program requires a design but NOT one done by a professional.  A simple pencil drawing will suffice.
   
   If you want to hire a landscape designer to create the drawing it will cost about $500. Another option is to purchase residential landscape design software, available on the internet for under $100.  You might find the software takes a little getting used to, but it can be an enjoyable process in the end.  There is an excellent free “How To” design course at BeWaterWise.com.  This class leads you through the plan drawings step-by-step.  We highly recommend you take this short online class prior to developing your plans.
2. Cost of killing and removing you lawn:  The most labor-intensive part of the process may be removing your old lawn.  Although killing the existing lawn may be time consuming, it’s not necessarily physically demanding.  But removing the dead grass can be a lot of work as it usually requires removing the top two to four inches of soil.  You may be able to hire someone to do this for you for about $500-$1,000 depending on the size of the lawn.
3. Cost of the irrigation system:  It takes a new drought-tolerant garden one or two years to get “established”, that is, for the plants and root systems to significantly mature.  Once established, your L2G landscape will require much less water than during its establishment period.  Some of the factors you should consider when estimating the cost of irrigating the new landscape include:
   • Will you be able to modify an existing irrigation system, with a water effecient irrigation system retrofit, to meet the lower water needs of your new L2G landscape?
   • Do you want to install a completely new, very efficient irrigation system such as a drip system? 
   • Can you do most of the work yourself or do you need to hire someone? 
   • Do you want a fully automated system or are you willing to invest the time necessary to do a lot of the watering yourself?
4. Cost of hardscape:  Hardscape can be a wonderful addition to most landscapes: new walkways, patios for outside entertaining or dining, decorative planters that add interest to your landscape.  Hardscape features can add pleasure to your garden by increasing your livable space and creating a peaceful place for you to relax.  Another benefit to most hardscapes is thay they require almost no maintenance: no watering, mowing, fertilizing, etc.  (Please remember:  your L2G landscape can contain NO impermeable hardscape such as concrete; any hardscape you add must allow water to infiltrate into the soil.)
   
   There are two basic costs related to adding hardscape.  First: the cost of material can range from a couple of dollars per square foot to more than five or six dollars depending on your choice of materials (such as inexpensive brick vs. flagstone).
   
   The second cost issue is whether you will  install the hardscape yourself (zero labor cost) or pay someone to do it (usually several dollars per square foot.).  As always, when considering paying someone to do the work for you, check their references – that’s the best indicator of whether or not you will be happy with their work.
   
   You’ll find a lot of information about hardscapes at your local hardware and specialty stores and on the internet.  This research will help you figure out whether it’s a project you can handle yourself or if you need to hire someone.
   
   
5. Cost of plants:  The three most important factors related to the cost of plants are:
   • Common vs. exotic: exotic plants will cost more than common plants. While it’s fun to add a few uncommon plants for variety, they can be expensive. 
   • Less mature vs. full grown plants:  Young plants of a particular species will cost you less than larger, more mature individuals that a nursery has had to “nurse” for several years.  Other than trees, many plants can achieve close to full size in one to three years.  Some experts believe it’s healthier for plants if they are purchased young and allowed to mature in the soil that will become their permanent home, as opposed to maturing in a pot.
   • Labor.  As with other aspects of your landscape, doing it yourself is free.  Expect to pay about $3 to $7 per plant for installation by a professional.

Please answer the following questions.

Section 4 – Design your L2G Landscape.

The landscape design you submit must conform to the L2G Design Requirements or it will be returned. But don’t panic, just take a few minutes now to review those requirements.

A professionally-drawn design is NOT required: You may submit a simple, hand-drawn design, using simple icons to represent landscape elements, such as circles to show where trees will go. We assume most of the designs submitted will be simple pencil drawings done by homeowners. However, the drawing must show enough detail to illustrate the overall design of the project.

When thinking about the design of your new landscape, don’t forget to take advantage of all the landscape resources we have developed for you. Go to our website www.lblawntogarden.com and click on the "Design and Ideas" tab.

It’s worth mentioning again that there is an excellent “How To” course at BeWaterWise.com This class leads you step-by-step through the drawing of your plans. We highly recommend you take this short online class prior to developing your plans. Of course you always have the option of hiring a professional landscape designer. 

The design phase is the time to consider including any “Watershed Friendly” elements to your landscape. The Lawn to Garden program requirements incorporate all of the Watershed Friendly requirements except for one: the use of rainwater. A Watershed Friendly landscape is one that allows rainwater to pass through plants and soil before entering our waterways as runoff. During your design phase we encourage you to consider adding a water retention feature to your garden to ensure that as much rainwater and irrigation water is held onsite. Some examples of water retention elements include:

1. Mulch and compost – Several inches of mulch and compost in your garden can create a sponge-like groundcover which will absorb and retain more water than mulch alone.
   
   
2. Dry creek beds – A dry creek bed lined with rock and plants will create a low spot in the garden which will retain water until it can be absorbed into the ground. If you are creating a dry streambed or other water retention area that will be all or partly composed of rock, there needs to be water permeable landscape fabric under the rocks to hold the structure in place.  This fabric is typically made of recycled plastic but it is woven so that there are holes where the water will permeate into the ground.
   
   
3. Retention ponds – A retention pond works very similarly to a dry creek bed as it allows more water to be held onsite. Your garden should be graded so that it will drain into your pond.

As you draw your design remember to hydrozone your plants. Hydrozoning is the practice of grouping plants together with similar water needs and it is VITAL to ensuring the long term success and beauty of your garden. All of the plants you use will be considered drought-tolerant but the amount of water they need will vary. Ask your local nursery about the watering needs for the plants you would like to use in your garden.

Please answer the following questions.

Although not in-correct, the best answer would be: (A) The design you submit must conform to the L2G “Design Requirements” and (C) The L2G program has created many resources to help you design your new landscape

The landscape design you submit must conform to the L2G Design Requirements or it will be returned and your application denied. But don’t panic, just take a few minutes now to review those requirements. A professionally-drawn design is NOT required: You may submit a simple, hand-drawn design, using simple icons to represent landscape elements, such as circles to show where trees will go.

The correct answer is: A and C - (A) The design you submit must conform to the L2G “Design Requirements” and (C) The L2G program has created many resources to help you design your new landscape

The landscape design you submit must conform to the L2G Design Requirements or it will be returned and your application denied. But don’t panic, just take a few minutes now to review those requirements. A professionally-drawn design is NOT required: You may submit a simple, hand-drawn design, using simple icons to represent landscape elements, such as circles to show where trees will go.

Your answer is correct: (A) The design you submit must conform to the L2G “Design Requirements” and (C) The L2G program has created many resources to help you design your new landscape

The landscape design you submit must conform to the L2G Design Requirements or it will be returned and your application denied. But don’t panic, just take a few minutes now to review those requirements. A professionally-drawn design is NOT required: You may submit a simple, hand-drawn design, using simple icons to represent landscape elements, such as circles to show where trees will go.

Section 5 – Choosing the right irrigation system.

Did you know that more than half of the water used at the average home goes towards landscape irrigation, and that about half of the landscape water is wasted?  Broken or misaligned sprinkler heads, high water pressure, and uneven distribution are some of the ways that water is wasted using traditional spray sprinklers.

The most water-efficient irrigation system is you!  That’s right, people who water by hand tend to use the least amount of water on their landscapes.  The drawback with this method is that people are not always available when the plants need watering, so the latter become unhealthy and the former unhappy.  Fortunately, you can design your landscape to incorporate the most drought-tolerant plants, requiring no more than once per week watering, even during the summer (certain short-rooted plants in hot sunny parts of the landscape).

But when the convenience of an in-ground irrigation system is needed, it’s important to know that different types of systems are more water-efficient than others.  Below are the major types of water-efficient irrigation systems.

1. Drip Irrigation
   
   Drip irrigation is a precise, slow, direct system of applying water to the soil, which makes 100% of the water available to the plant.  Where drip systems release so many gallons of water per hour, traditional spray heads release up to four or more gallons per minute.  The environmental and water-saving benefits of drip include decreased run-off, evaporation, and overspray. Drip irrigation is often preferred where you have relatively few plants spread over a large area (for example, a few large bushes with a lot of open space between them) or where you have hard-to-water areas such as narrow planters.  When installing drip, you must include a device to lower the water pressure and a special filter to keep the system from clogging up.  Click here for more information and instructional videos on drip irrigation. 
   

   ---

2. Bubblers
   
   Bubblers are a form of precise watering that delivers water deep into the soil – hence, it is especially useful around plants that have deep roots, such as trees.  Bubblers are also useful in certain planter boxes where traditional sprinklers would provide too much water.  Bubblers are durable, require little maintenance, require minimal filtration, minimize overspray and evaporation, and have an easily adjustable flow rate.
   

   ---

3. Stream Rotor Pop-ups
   
   Stream rotors replace traditional pop-up spray heads – that is, you simply screw the old top (the nozzle) off the pop-up and screw the stream rotor back in its place. Compared to traditional spray heads, stream rotors are fairly water conserving and only release about 25 percent of the water per minute: reducing evaporation and reducing runoff.  Stream rotors work well where you need to water a lot of plants that have fairly short root systems, like many groundcovers and bunchgrasses.  The alternative irrigation system is to run an extensive drip system.

The information on this page can be found in greater detail in the Metropolitan Water District Irrigation Tutorial. For more information on any of these irrigation methods, go to the websites of the big irrigation manufacturers, such as Rainbird and Toro, and go to:

• EWING
  
• Home Depot
  
• Lowes

The correct answer is: A - With plants with short root systems such as bunch grass.

Stream rotors work well where you need to water a lot of plants that have fairly short root systems, like many groundcovers and bunchgrasses. The alternative irrigation system is to run an extensive drip system.

Your answer is correct: A - With plants with short root systems such as bunch grass.

Stream rotors work well where you need to water a lot of plants that have fairly short root systems , like many groundcovers and bunchgrasses. The alternative irrigation system is to run an extensive drip system.

Section 6 – Choosing the right plants.

Choosing the right plants will be one of the toughest decisions you make.  There are many potential factors to consider.  This is where spending time at nurseries, on the internet, and observing what grows well in your neighborhood will really pay off.

When selecting plants for your garden, it is important to (1) understand the characteristics (such as the amount of sunlight) of the location to determine what plants are suited for that area and (2) understand the water needs of existing plants in that location – to make sure your additions can be placed on the same watering cycle.

Some important things to consider:

• Type of soil. If you have clay soil, certain plants may never do well
• Is your garden predominantly in sun or shade? 
• How hardy do the plants have to be (do you have a green thumb, or should the plants be nearly indestructible?)
• Are you looking to create a garden of a certain theme, such as a hummingbird or butterfly garden, or succulent garden, or capture a southwestern U.S. style or casual coastal? 
• Do the colors or plants need to complement your home’s design or exterior paint?
• Color of foliage and color of blooms and time of year of the blooms
• How tall and wide should plants be when mature (usually taller as you get close to tall structures such as the house, smaller as you get closer to smaller “structures” such as sidewalks and walkways)?
• How much variety or uniformity of color, size and shape are you looking for?
• Are the plants evergreen or deciduous?
• Can you benefit from deciduous trees near south-facing walls, which help warm the house in the winter and keep it cool in the summer?
• Do the plants attract animals or insects you might not like?
• Are members of your family allergic to certain plants?
• Can plants you’re considering be toxic to kids or pets?
• Avoid invasive plants. As a reminder, the most common invasive plant in Southern California, Mexican Feathergrass is not allowed in the L2G program.

Visit Los Angeles Coast Water Wise Gardening to help you with plant selection.  This site offers beautiful pictures and specific characteristics for each plant. You can save items that you like by clicking on the “Add to My Plant List” button.  This allows you to go back when you are finished browsing and print out a list of your selections.  You can even print the list out by hydrozones. A hydrozone is a landscape practice that groups plants with similar water requirements together.  Also try the short online class at BeWaterWise.com.This short course on Plant Selection will elaborate on the list of things to consider to help you narrow down your choices. 

Please answer the following questions.

The best answer would be: D. All of the above

When selecting plants for your garden, it is important to (1) understand the characteristics (such as the amount of sunlight) of the location to determine what plants are suited for that area and (2) understand the water needs of existing plants in that location – to make sure your additions can be placed on the same watering cycle. A hydrozone is a landscape practice that groups plants with similar water requirements together.

Your answer is correct: D. All of the above

When selecting plants for your garden, it is important to (1) understand the characteristics (such as the amount of sunlight) of the location to determine what plants are suited for that area and (2) understand the water needs of existing plants in that location – to make sure your additions can be placed on the same watering cycle. A hydrozone is a landscape practice that groups plants with similar water requirements together.

Section 7 – Design: Hardscape.

Hardscapes are structures within your landscape design such as terraces, patios, walls and paths. They are features constructed of hard materials including brick, stone, wood, and concrete. However, it is important to use permeable materials, or place impermeable materials (such as bricks and pavers) with enough space to allow water to infiltrate between them. Allowing water to percolate into the soil reduces or eliminates runoff and helps irrigate the soil.

Hardscape can create architectural interest by changing the shape or elevation of your garden, as is the case with short retaining walls and terraces, or direct the eye, as well as the foot, by forming permeable walkways that meander through your landscape.

Every southern California home should take advantage of our incredible weather by expanding our living space into the outdoors through the use of patios, dining or sitting areas. These areas are great for entertaining and relaxing and also help ease the transition between house and garden.

The Los Angeles Coast Water Wise Gardening and BeWaterWise.com websites have a lot of examples of beautiful, highly functional hardscapes. Visit your local big box hardware store for a good selection of hardscape, or visit a specialty store to view a much wider choice of options.

Please answer the following questions.

The correct answer is: B - A non-permeable brick walkway set in mortar or concrete.

It is important to use permeable materials, or place impermeable materials (such as bricks and pavers) with enough space to allow water to infiltrate between them.

Your answer is correct: B - A non-permeable brick walkway set in mortar or concrete.

It is important to use permeable materials, or place impermeable materials (such as bricks and pavers) with enough space to allow water to infiltrate between them.

Section 8 - Killing / Removing Your Grass.

Killing and removing the grass can be challenging.   Whatever method you use, it is most important to ensure that the grass is dead, dead, dead!   Turf grass is tenacious - patience and diligence are needed to eliminate it as thoroughly as possible before proceeding to the installation of your new landscape.  Your grass removal plan will depend upon the type of grass/grasses in your lawn and the time of year.  Cool season grasses, such as Fescue, Marathon, and Bluegrass, and warm season grasses, such as Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Zoyzia, may require different strategies.

These are the most common methods for killing and removing your grass:

Solarization:

This non-chemical method uses the sun's heat to "cook" the grass.  Cut the grass short.  Irrigate to saturate the soil and cover the lawn with clear plastic sheeting weighted down at the sides and corners with bricks or rocks.  Wait at least 6-8 weeks.  Remove the plastic.   This only works on areas of full sun and is best done in summer when the sun is the most powerful.  It will kill any type of grass and weeds.

Sheet Mulch:

Another non-chemical method that smothers the grass.  Cut the grass short and cover the lawn with several layers of newspaper or cardboard, then a 4-6 inch layer of organic mulch.  Wait at least 10-12 weeks, then turn mulch and decomposed paper into the soil.  Appropriate for any grass type, any time of the year but likely takes longer in winter.

Dig & sieve:

Dig up the grass by hand or use a sod cutter machine and shake any soil through a screen to remove any roots and seeds before returning soil to the planting area.  Effective but involves time consuming labor.

Herbicide:

Spray a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate (main ingredient in "Roundup").  This is not the most environmentally-friendly method but it is effective and relatively quick.  This only works on actively growing grasses, so do not use on "warm season" grasses during winter when those are dormant.   Spray according to directions, turn off irrigation, and then allow the area to be undisturbed for at least 7 days.  Dig up the lawn and remove it.  Water yard for 1-2 weeks or longer and spray any additional sprouts, repeating the process several times until no grass grows. 

The herbicide method is also not effective on grass that has gone brown for lack of water.  Grass that has turned brown only looks dead.  This grass is really dormant and would turn green and continue to grow if water was applied.  If this is the case, remove the lawn with a sod-cutter, then water and treat as above or water the lawn to encourage growth, then treat as above.

Disposal of the grass:

The easiest, but costliest method of removing the grass is to pay someone to haul it away.  Alternatively, you can bag up the grass and call the city for your annual free bulk trash curbside pickup (562-570-2876).  If you have a small amount, you can place it in your trash can for regular pickup.

Please answer the following questions.

The correct answer is: Sheet mulching.

Sheet Mulch: Another non-chemical method that smothers the grass. Cut the grass short and cover the lawn with several layers of newspaper or cardboard, then a 4-6 inch layer of organic mulch. Wait at least 10-12 weeks, then turn mulch and decomposed paper into the soil. Appropriate for any grass type, any time of the year but likely takes longer in winter.

Your answer is correct: Sheet mulching.

Sheet Mulch: Another non-chemical method that smothers the grass. Cut the grass short and cover the lawn with several layers of newspaper or cardboard, then a 4-6 inch layer of organic mulch. Wait at least 10-12 weeks, then turn mulch and decomposed paper into the soil. Appropriate for any grass type, any time of the year but likely takes longer in winter.

Section 9 - Soil Preparation.

After the turf grass has been removed, you may notice that the soil underneath has become compacted over time.  This means that the soil particles have been pressed together so tightly that water cannot infiltrate into the soil.  Plants installed in compacted soil cannot grow the necessary root system to survive.  The addition of soil amendments can greatly enhance the ability of your new plants to adapt to their new home.

Loosen up the soil surface by digging in some organic amendment.  This benefits the soil structure and incorporates nutrients that the new plants will appreciate as they adapt to their new environment.  You can dig in composted manure, worm castings, compost made from vegetable peelings, leaves or plant trimmings, or any of the soil amendments readily available at garden centers.  Spread a few bags of amendment over the surface of the soil and dig it in to break up the soil surface and incorporate the amendment.

Sandy loam is the ideal type of soil for most plants.  It nourishes the plants and provides good drainage.  In Long Beach, our soils tend to be clay in our inland areas and sand close to the shore.  Clay soil is rich but dense, so it drains poorly.  Sandy soil drains quickly but doesn't contain much nourishment.  Amending the soil with organic material prior to planting can help correct either situation.  Ask experts at a garden center about what to use for your type of soil or see the information printed on bags of commercially available amendment.

If you're not sure what type of soil you have moisten some of your soil with water and squeeze a small handful in your hand.   If the soil falls through your fingers when you open your hand it is sandy soil.  If it stays as a firm ball in your palm your soil is clay. 

Soil amendment will not change the native soil at your site but it can improve it enough to give your new plants their best chance to thrive.  Additional amendment applied periodically in the years ahead can benefit your garden.  Successful gardeners are wonderful sources of information - ask for their suggestions.

Please answer the following questions.

The correct answer is: Keeps earthworms away from plants.

The addition of soil amendments can greatly enhance the ability of your new plants to adapt to their new home. Soil amendment will not change the native soil at your site but it can improve it enough to give your new plants their best chance to thrive. Additional amendment applied periodically in the years ahead can benefit your garden.

Your answer is correct: Keeps earthworms away from plants.

The addition of soil amendments can greatly enhance the ability of your new plants to adapt to their new home. Soil amendment will not change the native soil at your site but it can improve it enough to give your new plants their best chance to thrive. Additional amendment applied periodically in the years ahead can benefit your garden.

Section 10 - Plant Installation.

When installing a whole new garden or even just a spot in the garden, it is wise to lay out the plants, while they are still in their nursery pots, where you anticipate they should go based upon your landscape plan.  Always consider the ultimate size of each plant, allowing space between plants for their future growth.  Double check that you have placed the plants in correct hydrozones - make sure that plants are grouped together by their watering needs and that irrigation to different zones can be handled on different valves.  Make any adjustments to the layout, then start planting.  The goal is to plant each one time only!

Some important techniques for successful planting:

• Dig each hole about twice the size of the nursery pot.
• Mix a little soil amendment with the soil you dug out and "backfill" this mixture into the bottom of the hole to a level that, when planted, the "crown" of the plant (where the roots meet the trunk) will sit at or above the surrounding soil
• Turn the nursery pot upside down or sideways and gently tap the bottom so that the plant slides out into your other hand.
• Turn the plant upright and set it atop the backfill in the hole.  Add more soil, as needed, to ensure the correct depth.
• Fill the hole around the plant with more of the amended soil you took out of the hole.
• Tamp down lightly around the plant and add more soil, as needed, to fill the hole.
• After all plants are installed, spread a 2-4" layer of organic mulch around and between the plants.
• Gently push away any mulch or soil that covers the "crown" of each plant, creating a "well" around each plant to collect water and direct it to the plant's roots.
• Water thoroughly so that the leaves of the plants are cleaned and the soil is moist 6-8" down for most plants and to the depth of the root ball of trees, if they are part of your new landscape.
• Stand back and admire your work!

Autumn in Southern California is the best time for planting your new garden - the ground will be cooler and, with any luck, we'll have some winter rain so the plants can nestle into their new home and develop roots before the onslaught of the following summer's heat.  If that timing is not right for you, however, you can plant just about any time and assist new plants with irrigation water.  One exception is some California Native plants - some cannot tolerate summer water - so read up on your plant selections or ask a nursery professional for advice about planting times.

Please answer the following questions.

The best answer is: All of the above.

When installing a whole new garden or even just a spot in the garden, it is wise to lay out the plants, while they are still in their nursery pots, where you anticipate they should go based upon your landscape plan. Always consider the ultimate size of each plant, allowing space between plants for their future growth.

Your answer is correct: All of the above.

When installing a whole new garden or even just a spot in the garden, it is wise to lay out the plants, while they are still in their nursery pots, where you anticipate they should go based upon your landscape plan. Always consider the ultimate size of each plant, allowing space between plants for their future growth.

Section 11 - Maintenance and Care of your new garden.

Caring for your new garden appropriately will ensure that it develops into the wonderful, drought tolerant landscape that you set out to create. A new garden needs more attention at first, then less as it matures and nestles into the environment. Your early attention will acquaint you with the plants and their needs and to the peculiarities of the site and will give you the opportunity to see your creation develop.

All plants, even drought tolerant ones, need routine watering to become established. For most trees this means 2-3 years; shrubs and perennials typically 1-2 years. Water deeply and thoroughly to encourage deep roots that will enable plants to survive the periods of drought ahead. Periodically monitoring the soil with a moisture meter probe will tell you if the soil is too wet or too dry so that the irrigation can be adjusting accordingly. Because each site's soil type and sun exposure varies, there is no hard and fast rule about the frequency of watering your garden, but once you figure out the pattern, it's pretty easy.

Turn your irrigation off when it rains!

• Controlling weeds is of paramount importance during the first 2 years with your new garden. Although weeds and grasses were removed during the cleanup, dormant seeds and tiny roots will begin to grow once soil improvements and water are added. Birds can also drop new seeds on your garden. As the new plants mature there will be less room for weeds. In the meantime, pull them or spray them with herbicide whenever you see tiny new shoots growing around your plants. Pull, pull, pull!
• Broadcasting pre-emergent weed killer granules keeps seeds from germinating without harming established plants, so that can help control weeds.
• Some common weeds can help guide you on making irrigation changes for your garden.  The presence of Nutgrass, Nut Sedge or Oxalis may show that your soil is moist, so you could cut back on irrigation a bit.  On the other hand, if Bermuda grass, Crabgrass or Mexican Feather grass are routinely popping up in your garden, it could be an indication that the soil is dry.
• Light cultivation of the soil surface with a hoe or rake is a healthy practice every month or two to control tiny weeds before they become established.  It will also ensure that mulch and topsoil are loose and allows water and oxygen to penetrate to the plants' roots.  If you've used subsurface drip irrigation - be careful - don’t go deep enough to damage the plastic tubes!
• Fertilizing new plants is not recommended because they typically arrive from the nursery well fed.  Fertilizing can begin after 6 months to a year.  Note, however, that California Native plants, many cacti and succulents, and Mediterranean plants tend to thrive in nutrient poor soils.  As a result, any fertilizer should be applied lightly during the growing season, typically winter through spring.
• Top up the layer of mulch as it breaks down - about once a year.  It keeps weed seeds out, moisture in and it simply looks good!  Regular mulching is one of the best things you can do for your garden!

As time goes on, some plants will need pruning to rejuvenate them (typically in late winter or early spring). Pruning may also be necessary to remove a branch that goes in an unintended direction (over a sidewalk, for instance). Some plants have limited life spans, so they will need to be replaced with the same plant or with something new. Make sure to get information on plant life span and maintenance from the nursery when you purchase your plants. A garden is a living thing and will need adjustment from time to time, so plan on that for the future.

Please answer the following questions.

The best answer is: All of the above.

As the new plants mature there will be less room for weeds. In the meantime, pull them or spray them with herbicide whenever you see tiny new shoots growing around your plants. Pull, pull, pull! Also, broadcasting pre-emergent weed killer granules keeps seeds from germinating without harming established plants, so that can help control weeds.

Your answer is correct: All of the above.

As the new plants mature there will be less room for weeds. In the meantime, pull them or spray them with herbicide whenever you see tiny new shoots growing around your plants. Pull, pull, pull! Also, broadcasting pre-emergent weed killer granules keeps seeds from germinating without harming established plants, so that can help control weeds.